Frequent Questions

Question: Your two-pack repairs two different size doors. How do I know my door size?

Answer: Doors come in two standard thicknesses. Interior doors are typically 1 3/8″ thick (or 35 mm) while exterior-facing doors are typically 1 3/4″ (44 mm). Our two-pack includes a 1 3/8″ Fix-A-Latch and a 1 3/4″ Fix-A-Latch. Hold them both to the edge of the door and select the one that fits.

Question: Your LatchPatch requires a gap between the door and door jamb. How much gap do I need?

Answer: Yes, we require a gap–but a small gap. As our LatchPatch product is 3/32″ thick, it only requires a 1/8″ clearance.

When doors are initially hung, the industry standard gap between the door and frame is 1/8″. However, the way this misalignment problem typically develops, 9 out of 10 doors will actually experience a widening of this gap–sometimes to as much as 1/2″. (It has to do with the way doors torque in the frame causing the gap above the midline to tighten and the gap below the midline to widen.)

Even though the vast majority of doors will have the requisite gap, a small minority will not. If your gap is less than 1/8″, the LatchPatch is not your solution. An easy test is to compare the width of your gap to two U.S. dimes. If two dimes fit easily into the gap, we’re good-to-go!

Question: Will the color of your Fix-A-Latch base match my trim color?

Answer: Ask professional painters and they’ll tell you that most trim is either a ceiling white or something very close. Our base is tinted to match the most commonly used white. You’ll be pleasantly surprised how well it blends.

Question: Do you have other strike plate finishes beyond brass, satin nickel and bronze?

Answer: Not yet. We consulted major door hardware manufacturers about the finishes we should offer. They suggested that brass, satin-nickel and bronze would satisfy 90% or more of our customers’ needs. Of course, if there’s sufficient demand, we’ll add new finishes.

Question: Are there other ways to solve this misalignment problem?

Answer: Yes, but there’s no universal method that resolves every misalignment problem. For example, one can sometimes resquare the door in the frame by replacing select hinge screws with longer screws. The idea is for the longer screws to traverse through the door jamb to the king stud behind the wall. Tightening these screws can sometimes straighten the hinge jamb and lift (or lower) the latch plane.

Resquaring a frame is a bridge too far for many folk. But, if you do try it, be sure to purchase long screws that sit flush in the hinge. Otherwise the hinge won’t collapse properly. Also, consider pre-drilling your holes to avoid splitting the jamb.

If the misalignment is slight, you can try expanding the latch hole in the strike plate using either a metal file or a hand grinder. Keep in mind, however, that you can only expand the latch hole by by 1/8″ or so. If your misalignment is larger (or if your door sags further), this method won’t solve your problem.

Finally, the most common method used by do-it-yourselfers is to remove, realign and remount the strike plate on the door jamb. Though it doesn’t require an exceptionally-high level of skill, you’ll need a sharp chisel and you’ll need to be comfortable using it. In addition, you’ll need a hammer, wood filler, sandpaper, paint (to match the trim), a brush and the better part of an afternoon.

Chances are that you solve your door problem in more than one way. But, if you just want a functional door in three minutes with minimal hassle and expense, we’re your solution.